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Chouf Druze Hospitality | ضيافة الشوف الدرزية

by Anastasia Chrome|3 min read|
"She runs her family's guesthouse in the Chouf Mountains. He's the conflict journalist seeking quiet after years of war. In Druze hospitality, he finds something he'd stopped believing in. 'Inti ahla mahal itlaq' (أنتِ أحلى محل إطلاق)."

Chouf Druze Hospitality

ضيافة الشوف الدرزية


Hospitality is sacred here.

The Chouf has always welcomed strangers—even enemies, once under our roof, become guests. My family has kept this tradition for generations.

Then the war-worn journalist arrives.


I'm Hayfa.

Fifty-one, Druze, built substantial and comforting. My guesthouse in the Chouf has sheltered refugees, travelers, lost souls.

Paul Marcus has been lost for longer than most.


"How many nights?"

"I don't know."

"Most people know."

"Most people aren't running from everywhere." He sets down his bag. "Do you require a departure date?"

"No. We require only that you rest."


He's fifty-five.

American, thirty years covering every conflict you've seen on the news. His hands shake. His eyes don't focus right.

"Have you eaten?"

"I don't remember."


I feed him.

Druze food—kibbeh, knafeh, coffee. He eats like someone remembering what food is for.

"Why the Chouf?"

"A colleague said it was the only place in Lebanon that felt peaceful."

"It's not peaceful. It's chosen peace. Different."


He stays weeks.

Eats, sleeps, walks cedar forests. Slowly, his hands steady. His eyes start focusing—often on me.

"You watch me."

"We watch all guests. It's hospitality."

"You watch me differently."

"You need watching differently."


He tells me things.

Not everything—some things can't be told. But enough. The children in Syria. The siege in Gaza. The bodies he stopped counting.

"Why keep going?"

"Because someone had to witness."

"And now?"

"Now I need someone to witness me."


I witness him.

His nightmares, which I soothe with tea. His grief, which I hold without trying to fix. His gradual return to human.

"Hayfa—"

"Eih?"

"I've never felt safe like this."


"That's hospitality. You're safe here."

"It's more than hospitality." He takes my hand. "Inti ahla mahal itlaq."

"Shu ya'ni?"

"The best place to land. To finally stop."


The kiss happens in my kitchen.

Where I've fed hundreds of strangers. His mouth on mine is question and answer.

"Is this appropriate?"

"Our hospitality covers everything. Including this."


We make love in the guest room.

Where he's slept for weeks, healing. I join him there, finally.

"Mashallah." He breathes against my skin. "You're—"

"Large. Soft. Not what you've seen—"

"Everything I needed to see."


He worships me like salvation.

Mouth on my neck, my breasts, the abundance I carry easily. I grip sheets I've washed for strangers.

"Paul—"

"Let me learn peace. Through your body."


His tongue between my thighs.

I gasp at Chouf ceiling beams. Pleasure replacing the horror he's held for decades.

"Ya Allah—"

"Yes. Call to whatever you believe in."


When he enters me, I feel his demons leaving.

We move together—slowly, peacefully. Hospitality of the most intimate kind.

"Aktar—"

"Aiwa—"


The climax is homecoming.

We cry out together—his first real rest in thirty years. Then silence, safety, the peace the Chouf has always offered.


Two years later

Paul still lives here.

Writes different stories now—about hospitality, healing, the Druze way. We married under cedar trees.

"Worth stopping?" I ask.

"I found the only place worth being." He pulls me close. "And the only person worth being with."


Alhamdulillah.

For hospitality that heals.

For journalists who stop running.

For guesthouses that become homes.

The End.

End Transmission